LONGER WALK 2: BANWEN OR COELBREN VIA HENRHYD FALLS TO CRAIG-Y-NOS

A walk which begins at the edge of former industrial Dulais Valley soon leads into the stunning beauty of the Henrhyd Falls and Nant-llech valley, before following spectacular the Upper Swansea (Tawe) valley to beautiful Craig y Nos Country Parks with its memories of a Victorian operatic super-star. Photo: C. Speakman, TFL

Map: OS Explorer OL12 or Landranger 160

Distance: 11km (7 miles) from Banwen or 9km (5½ miles) from Coelbren; allow up to 3½ hours

Terrain: Narrow paths through fields and woodland plus short sections of quiet lane. Some steep sections, with stiles and sections where careful path finding is required. Not suitable for the less agile.

Start: Option 1 at Banwen Bus Terminus Grid Reference 856097

Option 2 at Coelbren Bus Terminus Grid Reference 850116

Bus there:

Mondays to Saturdays: From Swansea First Cymru service X5 changing to 158 at Neath; every hour daytime.
Sundays: First Cymru Service 158 from Swansea and Neath; frequency every hour daytime.

Alternative option for Coelbren start:
Mondays to Saturdays only: Veolia X63 from Swansea 10.50 & 12.50; Neath 11.13 & 13.13.

Walk:  If you are taking the slightly longer walk from Banwen (which has more regular bus services), alight at the terminus at the cross roads. Cross this road and take the path directly ahead which leads to a small pond; turn left here along an old railway line between newly planted trees leading back to the road.

As you reach the road notice the stone plaque on your right which commemorates the legend of St Patrick’s birth reputedly somewhere near this spot.

Cross the road and mount the concrete steps ahead; this leads to a broad path along the track bed of an old colliery railway, now grassed over and lined by trees. Keep ahead to the metal pedestrian gates leading to the path across the railway bridge over the A4109. The path now follows a high colliery fence, past a still active industrial site before leading to the main A4221 road at a kissing gate. Cross and bear right to another kissing gate; this leads to an attractive raised path leading straight ahead across marshland, Gors Llwyn. Follow the path as it bears left then swings back right at the side of a bungalow, Corsllwyn-goch (853112). Your route is directly ahead along a grassy path under a tunnel over which once ran the Neath & Brecon railway. Keep straight ahead by hedges and fence to emerge in the lane just to the east of Coelbren village.

If alighting at the X63 terminus in Coelbren, join the walk here, heading due westwards from the bus stop to the edge of the village.

Immediately after the last house the village (853118), at a wooden fence on the left, a pedestrian gate, with a National Trust sign and the name Dol Henrhyd close by, leads to a grassy path overlooking the thickly wooded Llech gorge, where you'll find a bench and crossing path. Turn left here by the National Trust sign, but follow the lower path left which soon begins to zig-zag down to the valley floor where it joins a broader path to the right along the valley bottom heading for the splendid Henrhyd Falls.

Sgwd Henrhyd or Henrhyd Falls is, at 90 feet (27 metres), the highest waterfall in South Wales and a highlight of South Wales’ celebrated Waterfall Country, formed by a sharp fault line in the hard sandstone rock creating a deep rocky gorge of Nant Lech. The site is owned and managed by the National Trust. This beautiful valley forms part of the southern boundary of the Brecon beacons National Park.

Retrace your steps but this time keep to the path straight ahead, ignoring the path back to Coelbren; this has wooden steps with railings up and over the river. Continue down the valley, keeping straight ahead where the broad path swings sharply right up to the main visitor car park, to follow a narrow path continuing down the wooded valley of Graig Llech.

This is a beautiful but tricky, undulating path as it clings to the valley side. Take care, especially on the descents which in places go right to the water’s edge. There are steps and footbridges at various points, with some quite steep sections, and a tricky stretch over a recent landslide - keep to the well used, distinct path and keep any dogs under firm control. Your effort is well rewarded; these are natural oak and ash woods of great variety and beauty with fine views throughout.

Eventually the path descends to a gentler area of valley, and passes an old building, Melyn Llech. Ignore the footbridge left but continue uphill on the track from the old building. However at a junction some 100 metres ahead, take the narrower path on the left, signed Ynswen, which descends by steps and follows the river to eventually join a narrow lane at a stile by Llech Bridge (835126).

Ignore the path to Ynyswen directly ahead, but turn sharp right up the lane for around 100 metres to the entrance to a drive leading to a farmhouse, Cefn Coed Isaf. This metal gate looks private but in fact the drive carries a public right of way. Head for the next metal field gate beyond which you will see a stile clearly marked with a Brecon Beacons National Park footpath waymark; head for this, cross and continue to the next stile ahead. The path now follows an ancient wall, at first with the wall on the left but (follow the waymarks) later crossing through a gap; follow waymarks to the right. Keep the same direction at a clearing to again pick up a new stile with a farmhouse, Glyn-Llech-isaf in the woods to the right. Cross a stream and footbridge to the next stile (841127) following the waymarks to turn left to the next stile. Turn right here over somewhat boggy ground in woodland to a small wooden board-bridge over a wet area. Follow the fence along, again looking for stiles and waymarks on posts’ marking the line of path which now heads towards over a tiny stream and towards scattered gorse bushes.

The paths now emerge on a high cliff above the deep gorge of the River Tawe, with an impressive series of shallow waterfalls now coming into view. Follow the path, guided by waymarked posts, along the cliff fence, across a stile then over a shallow gully, eventually following the fence to the right (waymarked) to emerge in the lane at a stile north of Nant-y-ffin (847133).

Turn left here, down to the next junction towards Pen-y-bont where you should turn right along a cul de sac lane marked as a bridleway. Where the lane ends at a gate at Pen-y-cae (846138), take the bridlepath which forks left. This is a lovely, enclosed narrow way over soft earth which eventually reaches a broad access road to a large house. Keep ahead to join a broader lane curving in form the left. Follow this but some 25 metres past the outdoor centre, take the narrow lane left (848147) which curves downhill towards the river between trim hedges.

Where this lane passes Grithig Cottage (847152) once again take the narrower way through the gate on the left (signed Beacons Way) which winds its way below the high crag, Craig-y-Rhiwarth on the left, soon going behind the exotic woodland that forms the boundary of Craig-y-Nos Country Park. At a pedestrian gate left, follow the path which leads down to stepping stones and a ford but turn sharp left over a stile by the gate and notice board into Craig-y-Nos Country Park. Follow the riverside path through the parkland, crossing the footbridge to the main Visitor Centre and café in the park. Note the attractive small ornamental lake on the right.

Craig- y-Nos Country Park was the country estate of the famous Italian opera singer Adelina Patti (1843-1919), who made her home in Wales for over 40 years. She bought and rebuilt what is now the Castle Hotel as her private residence. She also built her own private theatre and auditorium for opera performances next to the main house, a beautiful building with an interior illustrated with names of great opera composers.

It is worth spending whatever time is available before your return bus exploring the beautifully landscaped High Victorian grounds with riverside walks, lakes, exotic shrubs (access to the theatre is usually possible through the hotel) with a delightful Edwardian pavilion a notable feature as well as walkways, ponds, ornamental tree plantings and even an oak tree planted by Adelina herself.

The most sensible place to catch your X63 bus is to turn left at the main vehicle entrance to Craig-y-Nos car park for 50 metres, walk along the pavement to the stone bus shelter some 10 metres beyond the entrance to the Castle, where sightlines for your approaching bus are much safer.

Finish: Craig-y-Nos Castle. Grid reference 840154

Facilities: is a shop in Banwen and teas/coffees can be had at the Dove café At Craig-y-Nos Country Park a new café has opened and a café/bar at Castle Hotel; toilets at Craig y Nos Country Park.

Bus back: Mondays to Saturdays only: Veolia X63 from Craig y Nos Castle to Neath and Swansea; 14.12 and 16.32 (last bus).

Tickets: Powys Day Rover at £7.00 valid on X63. First Cymru tickets only are valid on X5 and 158 so if starting at Banwen, separate tickets needed for outward and return journeys.

Updated 18.08.10