LONGER WALK 6: MELINCOURT TO GLYNCORRWG

This steep cross-mountain walk links the Neath and Corrwg valleys, starting near the magnificent Melincourt Falls then over the summit of Cefn Mawr with its hill top turbines, before descending through an area of magnificent forest into Glyncorrwg, which, with its celebrated Ponds, is now a major regional walking, mountain biking and canoeing centre. Photo: C. Speakman, TFL

Map: OS Explorer 166 or Landranger 170

Distance: 9km (6 miles); allow 3 hours

Terrain: Though only 9 kms - just under 6 miles - long, this is a quite strenuous walk with a climb from the Upper Neath Valley that totals 420 metres - 1,400 feet. There are woodland and moorland paths and tracks, some boggy stretches. Good footwear and rainwear essential and not to be attempted in mist or low cloud; a compass or SatNav system also essential.

Start: Melincourt Falls bus stop. Grid reference: 823020

Bus there: Mondays to Saturdays: First Cymru X5 from Swansea changing to 160 from Neath to Melincourt; frequency every hour daytime.

Sundays: First Cymru X5 from Swansea at 10.00 then from Neath (connection from Swansea by 158) to Melincourt; frequency every hour from 11.30 (Swansea), 12.05 (Neath).

Walk:  Alight from the bus at Melincourt Falls stop; there is a visitor car park and interpretive board by the bus stop. Cross the road and take the signposted path to the right of a small building. You soon enter a narrow valley, the footpath following the right hand side for 500m (about 1/3 mile) to the magnificent Melincourt Falls.

The 25 m (80 ft) high waterfall at the end of the valley is the focal point of a beautiful valley of mixed woodland, with birch, ash, oak rowan and sycamore providing a habitat which attracts a wide range of birds; woodpeckers, dippers, jays, wagtails and others. Over 80 species of plants have been recorded, making this an important local nature reserve, managed by the Wildlife Trust of South and West Wales. The waterfalls have long attracted visitors, including the artist Turner who painted the Falls in 1795.

Return from the Falls for around 80m to where on the left, a narrow permissive path leads over steps and tree roots up the hillside and swings to the left to follow the top edge of the valley, with magnificent views through the trees to the valley floor and Falls. Follow this to a pedestrian gate into a track which in turn leads into a lane.

Turn right here following the lane uphill; where it swings sharply left, go through the gate directly ahead (827005) with a signpost marked ‘St Illtyd’s Walk’ leading to a forest track. At a fork, keep left up a rocky waymarked path which zigzags up the hillside. There are impressive views across the Vale of Neath as you climb.

As you approach a gate and farm building by a single ash tree, take the narrow path left uphill parallel to the wall. Keep close to this wall and near the corner look for a well used gap in the fence behind the wall which is the line of the right of way. Cross here, keeping in the same direction, straight uphill to another gate and stile in the wall above (823011).

Turn right here along a farm track, but after 30m take the track left, in the process of being rebuilt, which takes he bridleway to the hillside ahead. At the next wall the bridleway follows a grass-covered route up the slope, veering to the left along a shallow plateau before turning sharp right (829009) to follow a wall alongside a low hill summit ahead. As you round the hilltop, the track bears left towards a gate in the centre of a fence straight ahead (waymarked). From here, head south-west over an expanse of open moorland.

Note the great plantation of trees ahead; head for a point some 50 metres from the corner of the plantation (827001) and keep slightly to your left to avoid an area of very wet bog where you will locate a narrow pedestrian gate with the ‘St Illtyd’ waymark, leading into the forest.

A well defined forest path to follow now, between tall trees, heading due east, though with some wet areas exacerbated by trail bike misuse have to be crossed. The path emerges above a shallow moorland valley, marked by ancient cairns and old mine workings. Head for the crossroads where the finger post, with several waymarks, will keep you on St Illtyd's Way along the clear track which heads along the hillside towards turbines directly ahead; then along the side of the summit below but to the immediate left of the turbines. Where the more obvious track bears left towards old mine workings below, keep with the marked trail up the steeper, eroded path almost to the edge of the turbines which with their characteristic whooshing sound are far from silent as you get close. Continue steeply uphill past the turbines, joining a broader track as it follows the high ridge of Cefn Mawr. The path, here known as Cefn Ffordd swings left towards and finally enters the forest ahead at gates and stiles (850994) where signs indicate several walking and cycling routes that meet here.

You have now entered part of the Afan Forest Park, 120 sq km of forest carefully maintained by the Forestry Commission for forestry, nature conservation and recreation, now including some of the finest challenge mountain bike routes in Britain as well as miles of magnificent walking routes, all offering spectacular views into the Afan and Corrwg Valleys.

Take the narrower bridle path on the right, marked with a blue waymark. This climbs gently upwards; keep to the right to avoid the occasional fast moving cyclist, eventually reaching the summit of the walk at 451 m. From now on it is a gradual descent to the Corrwg Valley. The forest track descends across tiny streams, before entering a clearance where mountain views open out to the south, as the track contours around the hillside. After just over a km from the entrance (860987), you reach a major junction of paths, with a broad crossing vehicular track, Go directly ahead to pick up the narrower bridleway ahead which now descends slightly to the right.

Easy walking now, the descent becomes steeper, following a huge S-shaped curve where the track has been broadened, soon swinging down, still in dense forest to join another track from the right and eventually reach the outskirts of Glyncorrwg village. At a crossroads, keep straight ahead down the narrow tarmac lane marked with a 20mph sign, which emerges opposite the village church with its small bell tower. Turn right to the bus shelter in the street below for the journey back.

If you take the road on the right just past the bus stop and head due south-west though the village you reach and follow the lane to Glyncorrwg Ponds Mountain Bike Centre; about five minutes’ walk away from the bus stop.

Finish: Glyncorrwg. Grid Reference: 876 992

Glyncorrwg Ponds is a unique enterprise established by the Glyncorrwg Ponds Co-operative to restore and regenerate the former colliery site. A series of new freshwater ponds have been creating for angling, canoeing and strolling, old spoil tips have been planted with trees and shrubs and new walkways and cycleways created leading into the wider Afan Forest Park. Here there is a cafe, toilets, tourist information and other facilities.

Bus Back:  Mondays to Saturdays: First Cymru 36 to Cymmer connecting to 23 for Pontrhydyfen (connection to Neath) and Port Talbot (connection to Swansea; frequency, every hour daytime.

Sundays: First Cymru 159 direct to Neath (connection to Swansea). Frequency: every hour daytime (except no bus at 14.43 from Glyncorrwg).

Tickets: From Swansea: First Day Swansea Bay; prices as of Summer 2010: £4.25 adult, £2.75 child.
From Neath: First Day Neath Port Talbot; prices as of summer 2010: £4.00 adult, £2.75 child.

Updated 19.08.10